By Sharon Whitley Larsen

RIO DE JANEIRO, Brazil - Ipanema is the Rodeo Drive of Rio, with many upscale, fashionable boutiques and shops - like Louis Vuitton - and H. Stern Jewelers, which has its worldwide headquarters here.

One day I took a taxi (about $6) from my hotel in Copacabana to Ipanema, then walked back (about an hour). And I discovered some off-the-beaten-path gems - and tips from locals - that you might enjoy on your trip to Rio. Please note that most of the Web sites are in Portuguese.

- A Garota Ipanema (Rua Vinicius de Moraes, 49), the renamed restaurant/bar where legend has it in 1962 Antonio Carlos Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes wrote the popular song "The Girl From Ipanema" about a "tall and tan and young and lovely" local teenager, Heloisa Pinheiro. Or at least this is where they sat sipping caipirinhas while they watched her walk to and from the beach and school, writing the song elsewhere.

Although most are written in Portuguese, it`s fun to browse the various framed newspaper articles written about this popular spot - and the song - that line the restaurant`s walls. Visit Heloisa`s tiny beachwear shop next door, Garota de Ipanema (Rua Vinicius de Moraes, 53, www.garotadeipanemabrasil.com.br ), where you can buy a souvenir T-shirt for about $10. And note the photos of her on the back wall behind the cash register, as she was at age 18 in 1962 when the famous song was written about her, and as she is today at 60, still a very attractive woman.

- Rio Scenarium (Rua do Lavradio, 20, Praca Tiradentes, Lapa; www.rioscenarium.com.br ). An antique gallery by day - with some unique, funky gems - it`s transformed into a restaurant/bar for dancing at night. And it`s the place to be and be seen, by both locals and tourists.

"We send lots of people there," said tour guide Daniel Brandao. "Every night they have different bands, a different Brazilian style of music. It`s an old, three-story house full of antiques, with a unique decor."

- Azul Marinho (Hotel Arpoador Inn, Avenida Francisco Bhering S/N, Arpoador, Ipanema; www.cozinhatipica.com.br ). A great place to try some interesting local seafood, such as Pedra do Arpoador (grilled shrimp, squid, octopus, lobster and crab), File de Peixe Carioca (grilled fish in a shrimp sauce), Camarao na Moranga (shrimp baked with a catupiry cheese in a Moranga pumpkin), Tropeiro do Mar (shrimp, red beans, bacon, onions, garlic and small red peppers) and Charque Jerimum Macaxeira (fried dried beef with a yucca puree).

And you must try the desserts, which include grilled banana with sugar and cinnamon and mangada de colher, a mango dessert from the Forest Area. This restaurant is very popular with the locals and is "a best-kept secret," noted longtime Rio resident Daniel Brandao. On a stormy Saturday afternoon at 3, it was packed, and we were the only Americans here.

- Casa da Feijoada (R. Prudente de Moraes 10-B, Ipanema; www.cozinhatipica.com.br ). In this cozy restaurant, you can enjoy some of the most delicious traditional dishes of Brazilian cuisine, including the famous black bean stew. And don`t forget to sample the typical Brazilian desserts, like pumpkin with coconut. Again, we were the only Americans here having a weekday lunch.

- Bar D`Hotel (top floor of the tiny but luxurious 5-year-old Hotel Marina All Suites Leblon, Av. Delfim Moreira, 696). A gorgeous, modern bistro overlooking the beach that`s the local hot spot at night. Elegant dining (open all day) where entrees cost about $10. In fact, according to a hotel spokeswoman, Arnold Schwarzenegger stayed at this exquisite hotel several months before he became governor of California.

- Confeitaria Colombo (Rua Goncalves Dias, 32, downtown Rio, www.confeitariacolombo.com.br ). This classic, sophisticated upstairs coffeehouse with an elegant bakery downstairs, built in 1894 with art nouveau decor, is definitely worth a visit for afternoon tea or buffet lunch, which costs about $20. It`s popular both with locals and with tourists from all over the world.

- Porcao Rio`s (Av. Infante Dom Henrique, S/N, Aterro do Flamengo-RJ; www.porcao.com.br ). A churrascaria rodizio (buffet barbecue) is one Brazilian dining experience that`s not to be missed.

A huge buffet with all kinds of salads, cheeses, sushi and cold seafood beckons - and, after diners complete that, men servers parade around the vast restaurant, holding upright slabs of juicy, sizzling meat (beef, pork, lamb, etc.) and huge carving knives as they stop to slice off pieces to drop onto your plate. They make it look easy, but it`s a specially learned skill. For less than $20 it`s all-you-can-eat at this entertaining barbecue chain that`s popular for family celebrations.

- Gilson Martins (Rua Visconde de Piraja, 462, Ipanema; and Rio Sul Shopping Center; www.gilsonmartins.com.br ; e-mail sac@gilsonmartins.combr. Reportedly models Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer - as well as many Brazilian celebrities - own one of these unique, funky purses, which sell for about $20-$60, and seem to be the rage in Rio. They are easy to carry home and make great conversation-piece souvenirs, especially the ones with the Brazilian flag design.

IF YOU GO

For more information: Rio Convention and Visitors Bureau:
 www.rioconventionbureau.com.br , e-mail: gerenciadeturismo@rcvb.com.br .

Sharon Whitley Larsen is a freelance travel writer.

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